Just bough a house in NY about 1 hr north of NYC,its got a finished basement no water on floor but, the sheetrock gets wet only at bottom. Is there any advantage/disadvantage of using a “waterproofer” (i.e. I was hoping you would say that.. Are you going to frame a wall? I will be using the Delta FL floor product, so I play on running that under the new 2×4 walls and sealed to the fiber board. The concept should be: – Traditional framed wall with fiberglass insulation and vapor barrier. Spacious space and bathtub. Gaps behind the foam are of NO concern. On the outside of the concrete walls is 1.5″ rigid foam and on the inside of the concrete walls, sealed with sealant. Thank you for your reply, it helps me a lot. I would imagine R13 in a NJ basement will be quite comfortable. I was thinking I just need to fill in the 2″ gap above the brick to seal in the air gap. I am about to install the studded inner wall. You’ll want to wrap those pipes, both hot and cold. Good luck! I’m not saying it won’t but can you give a link for a approved study saying it can? It has always been pleasantly cool in the summer and warm in the winter without any HVAC in the basement. Since it is semi-rigid, would I get away with no glue? I also tyvek taped the seams, spray foamed the gaps my question is I have read people leaving at least a 1/2″ gap between studs and foam. Found inside – Page 48The moonlighttowers, 150-foot-tall former arclights converted to mercury vapor lamps, purchased from the city of Detroit during Austin's 1890s electric boom ... The bigger issue is only installing foam between the studs. The last thing you want is to trap moisture between the two. 3. Thanks for the site. Because you’ve used 2 inches of foam i would skip any kind of vapor barrier. As with anything….you get what you pay for :). Found insideIn a moment the hill-side was covered with flying wreaths of vapor, ... mist up in a tall column of whirling vapor, as if from some great stewing-pot below, ... Then I will insulate the walls in a method you have recommended with 2″ thick foam board. Warm, moist air from the finished space, passes past the insulation and hits the cool/cold plastic that sits against the concrete causing condensation. Thanks again, and I did sign up for the FREE newsletter. what is the preferable option re. 1. Using the “Sort” and “Filter” features is a great way to narrow down the search. Bryan. Where is Pgh? I certainly hope you bookmark the site or LIKE us on Facebook so you can keep up with all our great articles. Thanks. I am thrilled to be able to ask someone a question in English for a change! Foil faced is typically polyiso insulation, that works too. I have a ‘floating slab’ so I plan to run the 2″ foam board down into that. Like many of your followers I wish I had found your sight earlier. I think white paint would do wonders for making it brighter. If you need any additional information, please let me know. If so, when I put the foam board up on the concrete portion, do I just leave the two types of insulation seperated, or do I need to join them somehow? I assume you’d install 1-1/2″ of foam before the 1×2’s correct? Check it out. The poly surface will be cold and any damp air that hits it will turn into water condensate. It needs to be closed cell foam. Appreciate your help! 2 of the walls are exterior walls. If I were you I’d have installed another layer of foam over the existing foam and studs so that you’ve created a proper vapor barrier. Sadly things just got worse. In the details that I’m showing the decking is ONLY under a NON-LOAD bearing wall. Thank you. The floor can be several things, carpet, tile and even some of the laminate floors. What things should I pay particular attention to? Mark – 2″ foam board is definitely better and I say use it if you can afford it. 3. It reportedly accepted industrial wastes. or press and seal the insulation right against the outside board. I would certainly remove the fiberglass (another good resource for Canadians is Holmes on Homes, he does a great job with foundations up north). I have block about 4′ up, 2×4 framed on top of that, fiberglass insulated. With only 1-1/2″ foam it’s a toss up. I have framed this wall using 2×4’s turned on their side attached directly to this concrete wall (shared with garage above) secured with Tapcon screws. No need to glue it, but be sure you seal each of the 2nd pieces with can foam at all edges of the framing. Do you know about Products such as Certainteed Platon, DMX Step 1 and Delta-FL subfloor system that uses HDPE dimpled membrane plastic as the subfloor? is there an easy way to seal, insulate that area without having to remove the whole mess from the concrete wall. (I am betting the answer is no.) Looks like we are tight. That does make sense. I expect much of this might be due to limited airflow with concrete block walls, concrete floor and a concrete ceiling. As you said, you get what you pay for. I live in SE Michigan. After removing the plastic in some areas, the walls were wet and/or moist in a lot of areas (soaking the insulation at the bottom and creating the moisture we could see). My original thought was to use spray foam for the 1/2″ cavity but after researching spray foam kits I’m not sure I want to take on that task. I live in South Central Pennsylvania in a new house that was completed about one and a half years ago. I recommend you install 2 inches of closed cell foam board (DOW Blue or Owens Pink). Matt – Couple of options. Also would 2 layers of 3/4″ xps with staggered joints be better then 1 layer of 1 1/2″? I’d probably cut a small hole and inspect the insulation. I would like to leave a gap between the foam and the drywall if I would ever want to run wiring in the future, can I leave an air gap or should I fill with fiberglass or something? The regular put the load lifters (where they attach to the pack frame) level with my shoulders, resulting in a 0-degree angle between the … All trademarks are property of their respective owners in the US and other countries. and if you suggest i do, how thick at minimum should i use for wood laminate floors.Now, any of these products mentioned, how would you compare them with the Dricore system other than its convenient for the size of 2′ x 2′ and already has the OSB on it? I want to avoid having mold problems down the road. We will be using dry wall. I have a quick question about the top of my cinder block walls. Over time and throughout seasonal changes in temperature concrete will “dry” out releasing a tremendous amount of water vapor. Current “science” tells us that you need a minimum of 1-1/2″ of foam in order to stop water vapor. We then covered the ceiling with sheetrock and now i’m wondering if moisture could be trapped between the insulation and mil plastic. Thanks Todd. 3. Thanks for your help. I have had some leaks on walls in the past and will have a French drain installed. I am currently in the middle of refinishing a finished basement. I like 4×8 sheets because there are less joints to seal. ... Michel Design Works Lilac And Violets Foaming Hand Soap, 17.8 oz. I think they are also fine if you spray foam around them. Having missed out on skiing this year I am sure that this will make an appearance on the slopes but for now it works well as … The 3/4 “furring strips are concrete nailed to that north side wall. I live in Michigan so we have some harsh winters. We are about to have our basement finished the contractor states he would put vapor barrier directly against basement wall then framing. I think my plan is pretty solid based on your comments and explanations…but I’m a little paranoid, so just to make sure would you mind giving me a thumbs up here. Block wall is really the same thing as a concrete wall. Steve – The bigger question is relative humidity. I can send you a couple of pictures if you like. Is that an issue, or should I remove and re-tape the poly between the new drywall and framing? If you do not recommend fiberglass insulation on interior walls in this bathroom what would you recommend for sound reduction? The gap isn’t all that important when foam is involved, in fact, you can place the framed wall about a 1/2 from the concrete if you want and spray foam the wall in place. Also when doing the wall framing/studs, the there are two walls where I can’t hang the preformed studs since its parallel to the joist. and then I was going to use acoustic foam to seal the foam on the foam on the basement side of the foam pieces (the vertical points where the foams meets) and then tape over top… is this ok? Todd, I am currently in the process of trying to find a good “replacement” insulation method for my basement in Fargo North Dakota. At the top the concrete runs paralel with the joists and there is a gap that the house sits on, on the top part of the concrete wall. After much review, my question now is which is better, extruded polystyrene or polyisocyanurate for basement walls? We recently had a rodent problem in our split level basement, so we took out all the basement insulation (walls+ceiling) and we are thinking of using 3″ foam board on the walls, seal it and put dry wall directly against it without leaving any room. What additonal R value would I want with the fiberglass? I was just responding to RJ’s comment about R13 foam. Basement is “dry” but air does feel a little “damp”. For starters go read this: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0202-basement-insulation-systems It’s one of the most widely accepted articles on the issue. Roxul is non-combustible, fire-resistant up to 2150 F and water-resistant. After checking with the builder, I was told it was done this way so the walls can breathe and dry to the inside and I should not use foam insulation or a poly vapor barrier. I’d be tempted to leave it….but check on it after a year. Exterior walls are framed on the outer edge of the approx 9″ thick foundation while interior walls were framed from floor to ceiling with 2×4’s set flat against the foundation resulting in a 1.5″ – 2″ depth to foundation and an additional 5-1/2″ beyond that to the inside of the outer wall. We derive meaning from popular solid and playable game. Mike – You’re very welcome. Found inside – Page 63Comes a vapor from the margin , blackening over heath and holt , Cramming all the ... To watch the three tall spires ; and there I shaped The city's ancient ... I do have a pretty good understanding from what I have read so far, and plan on installing 2″ foam to the block walls and studding the walls out for future drywall. Just be sure to seal everything well. 4. It really depends on the R value you want. My first thought/question really is how much water does your basement get? So with 1.5 inches of foam should I space the wall an additional 1.5 inches away from the foam? I was going to use 6 mil poly on the inside of the wall(drywall side) and a friend said to run poly against the concrete side up to grade level. We will be putting up the drywall ourselves. Does that include faced and unfaced batts? For professional homework help services, Assignment Essays is the place to be. Thanks Todd. If you already know the brands you like and trust, use the “filter” option to view only those brands. 2” spray foam seems like its going to be fairly expensive. I removed all the fiberglass insulation as they are all wet. If you are really concerned then I recommend skipping the fiberglass and going with just foam board (thicker). I’m planning to do the framing, insulation and drywalling of my basement. Then you can supplement the R value with fiberglass, Roxul, or another cheaper product. Visit us online or in-stores to find out how our relationships with sportswear brands like Nike, adidas, PUMA and Under Armour ensure you access to the most technically inspired women’s clothing on the market. Is there any problems with this construction? The lower section of the block walls appear to have been “slightly damp” during this last hurricane which was the worst rainfall and flooding on record–and I will be installing new french drains around the house, just for insurance. any truth to this? Concrete is often placed in mass pours sometimes over a hundred feet deep in foundations. It’s my pleasure to help homeowners out and I hope that you’ll share this site with friends and family and even consider signing up for our FREE newsletter. They just had 1″ X 3″ furring strips attached the concrete blocks with no insulation on the exterior walls. Tom – Sorry to hear about your problem. I really can’t build that section of the wall out at all, since my stairs would be too narrow. In the 4 years we have lived here there have been no moisture or leak problems. If this is what you’re saying I am not certain I agree. Liquid nails should do just fine. It just didn’t sound right to me. I would NOT use poly in a basement. Will I encounter problems if I apply 2″ polystyrene foam board below the foil insulation? When the 2 x 3 stud walls were put up, they put clear plastic on the side facing the concrete block (with about an inch air gap). Thanks Todd. Question #2: The wall in question is a short, 6’long bathroom wall and it would be possible to slip a sheet of poly between the stud wall and the concrete. I’ll foam any gaps and tape all the joints with Tyvek tape. It really depends on how dry that basement is. If the foam board has foil does it go against the concrete (I have read different stories on that)? Glenn – In many locations, additional R value is required in order to meet the energy code. I am very concerned about moisture/mold and your info is finally making sense to me. Typically, I’d install the foam against the wall, if you use adhesive then apply it vertically so any water can drain down to the French Drain. So we thought it might be a good idea to clear up some of the confusion. Is this ok? Thanks again. I attach the drywall to the foam with 2.5 inch screws that screw thru the foam and into the furring strips. Apply 1.5″ of extruded polystyrene to the concrete wall, Tape seems etc. Any information would be greatly appreciated since I keep reading different opinions on the internet. Not necessarily. Every day it seems there are better products and better approaches that we can all learn from. Jim – Thanks for stopping by….I hope you visit often! I don’t think it matters if you frame before or after. Plastic is bad because it traps moisture and it makes a great surface for damp air to condense on if the dew point is correct. I have since followed your advice on fixing drainage issues, I’ve installed new drains outside. I’m also worried about the vapors.) Wouldn’t the PT bottom plate be enough protection against potential wicking of moisture into the framing? Install foam board, seal it, then install studs either as before or with traditional framing. Currently I am finally having drains put under the floors, tied back to a proper sump pit. For some reason they left the bottom of the walls (5 inches or so) uncovered. Ahh…..I understand now :) sorry for the confusion. I would like to help them do it right and am wondering if xps is necessary if there is only about 3 feet underground and the foundation is brick. We were told by the builder that the humidity in our home was too high and it was creating condensation between the cold walls and insulation/plastic barrier. Old City of York Landfill. This way you can install the foam board and let it over hang the newly constructed channel. I thought it would be a good idea. In fact the insulation feels brand new. Todd, Awesome information…I have read a lot of these articles, and most of the comments. As you’ve pointed out the steel beams are the real trick. The concrete is not good enough. Don’t hesitate to stop by and ask more questions. I’d say stick with what you can afford. I haven’t seen an R13 unfaced product but maybe it is out there. Well I’d prefer that you had more foam first. Everyone (including the wife) says to just leave that and put up the drywall. It made a HUGE difference in the temperature. Fantastic article and a point of departure for dealing with a wall which vents moisture into a large room. I do have a question of my own; would double sided tape work instead of glue? I find it easy to cut and install. That’s exactly what I thought he’d say. 1. Tike – It depends. They look amazing and they still offer the access that you’ll most certainly need. The vapor barrier is sealed to the concrete wall at the bottom with some sort of seal and nailed directly to the concrete. We were planning on finishing the basement soon. First afternoon show with good selection and service times click on update tab before? I plan on doing my basement N/E cold poured wall always dry. Dan, Put a backup sumppump system in. We just moved into a house this winter. 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